|
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Spring Lettuce Salad with Herb Dressing,
Mascarpone Polenta, Braised Beef Short Ribs
INSET: Joseph Oldham, executive chef, Four Seasons Hotel, Houston
H O U S T O N
March
2007
BY JANICE SCHINDELER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
SYLVESTER GARZA
|
|
 |
ABOVE RIGHT:
Spring Lettuce Salad
with Herb Dressing
LEFT:
Mascarpone Polenta
RIGHT:
Braised Beef Short Ribs
with Red Wine &
Mushrooms |
 |
___________________________________________________
“At work, I am always in the kitchen. When I entertain at home, I like to be with my guests,” says the executive chef of the Four Seasons Hotel, Houston, whose
normal day includes overseeing the production of more than a thousand gourmet meals. His responsibilities range from the Italian delights prepared in the highly
acclaimed Quattro restaurant, room service, numerous banquet halls and the employees’ cafeteria.
While work at the luxury Four Seasons requires food and service with depths of formality and complexity, Oldham keeps it simple at home. In both kitchens he
practices the same food philosophy: Fantastic dishes start with fanatically high quality and fresh ingredients.
Oldham uses unique cooking styles to accomplish his goal of casual simplicity. Some evenings he develops a menu centered around a braised main dish, such as the
Braised Short Ribs with Mascarpone Polenta that he shares here with us. “By choosing a braised dish, with all the preparation done earlier in the day, I am free
to socialize and enjoy myself and my company.”
On the nights he chooses braising, he finds ways to incorporate his guests into the cooking procedure. “I get everyone involved in the cooking process by inviting
them into the kitchen to make the salad,” says Oldham.
His other favored entertaining method is Asian-style cooking, like satays, stir frys and sushi. Before the guests arrive, he’ll have done all the prep work. Then with the guests clustered around, he’ll whip up the sushi, cook the stir frys or grill the satays.
When serving the braised meals, he prefers plain white bowls and dishes. Only one night a year does he get fancy. “The holiday season is a blur for me. I work
nonstop at the hotel. So I’ve made the Oscar night my big blow-out holiday,” confides Oldham, an avid film buff. “All the dishes are gold, and every year I name
the dishes after the movie stars.”
Oldham has worked for the Four Seasons for more than a decade, his postings have included Hawaii, Singapore and San Diego and his Oscar parties have become
legend in the corporation, second only to his reputation for being calm under stress.
However, he gets a bit edgy when asked about desserts. He admits he is not one for producing pastries.
“My desserts are usually marinated berries of some sort,” he says.
He adds, with a quiet smile, that he usually exercises executive privilege and orders dessert from the hotel’s talented pastry chef, Philippe Valladares.
|

Click here to
view or print
the entire article
976kb file
(Adobe Acrobat
Reader 5.0 or later
required)
Click here
to download
Acrobat Reader
|
___________________________________________________

Serves 6
Assorted lettuces and greens (Mesclun Mix: radicchio, butter lettuce, lolla rosso, frisee, baby spinach) for 6 people
1 large ripe avocado, diced
Ripe tomatoes (Chef Oldham favors red and yellow cherry or teardrop tomatoes.)
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
1 cup fried sunchoke chips (Jerusalem artichoke chips) for garnish
To prepare the sunchoke chips, wash and dry the sunchoke bulbs (leave the outer skin on). Slice into very thin rounds and fry in 325-degrees canola oil until golden brown. Remove from the oil, drain on a paper towel and season with salt.
Toss the salad greens with the tomatoes, avocado and herb dressing.
Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Herb Dressing
1/3 cup chopped fresh chives
1/3 cup fresh flat leaf parsley (Italian parsley)
1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves
1/4 cup fresh chervil leaves
1/4 cup fresh lemon basil leaves
1/3 cup Dijon mustard
1/4 cup honey
1 1/2 cup canola oil
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
Freshly ground white pepper and Kosher salt to taste.
Combine all ingredients in a blender and puree until emulsified. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use. |

Serves 6
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 beef short ribs
1/2 cup flour for dredging
Salt & pepper
12 cipollini onions, peeled
2 large ribs celery, diced
2 large carrots, diced
4 cloves garlic, sliced thin
2 cups assorted wild and
cultivated mushrooms
1/4 cup dried Porcini
mushrooms, soaked in hot
water to soften |
1 bay leaf
1 sprig rosemary
4 long strips orange zest
1 heaping tablespoon
tomato paste
1 cup red wine
1 cup veal stock or beef broth
Handful of Italian parsley
leaves, chopped for garnish
Freshly ground white pepper and Kosher salt to taste. |
In large Dutch oven or flameproof casserole with a lid, heat the olive oil on mediumhigh heat. Season the meat with the salt and pepper and dredge in the flour to coat, shaking off excess flour. Brown well on all sides. (Take your time with this step, as it will add a lot of flavor to the sauce.) Remove and set aside.
In the same pot, sauté all of the vegetables and mushrooms until they start to brown. Add the herbs, orange zest and tomato paste and continue to brown, about 5 minutes. Pour in the red wine and stock and stir to distribute the vegetables and dissolve the tomato paste.
Add the meat back to the pot and bring to a slight boil, adjust the temperature to a simmer and cover the pot. Cook slowly, turning the meat occasionally, until tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Carefully remove the meat and vegetables and keep warm. Skim any fat from the surface of the sauce. Bring the sauce back to a simmer and reduce until slightly thickened to coat the back of a spoon; adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Arrange the meat on a serving platter and spoon the reduced sauce over the top and around. Garnish the platter with the chopped parsley and serve.
|

Serves 6
2 cups simmering chicken stock
1/2 cup stone-ground polenta
3 heaping tablespoons of mascarpone cheese
2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Add the polenta to the simmering chicken stock, whisking constantly to avoid any lumps. Gently simmer, stirring frequently, about 6 to 8 minutes, until the desired creamy consistency is achieved. Fold in the mascarpone and the butter and season to taste. Keep covered and warm until ready to serve.
|
_________________________________________________________________
SUBSCRIBE to House&Home now to receive
12 months of home and garden trends and ideas.
PICK US UP at hundreds of locations in Houston,
Dallas or contact your local House&Home for
location and subscription information.
|