CHOOSE A SITE
The first thing to consider when planting fruit trees is the planting site. Choose a location in full sun with good air circulation. Select a site with good, well-drained soil. Most fruit trees prefer a sandy loam soil with a pH of no more than 7.5. A soil with pH greater than 7.5 might cause adverse physiological problems. If you happen to have a very sandy soil that is extremely well-drained, incorporate 6 inches of well-decomposed organic matter into the soil over an area that will encompass the tree’s roots. If you have clay soil, rototill at least 3 inches of expanded shale into the area that will encompass the tree’s roots. Afterward, rototill at least 3 inches of well-decomposed compost into that mixture. The expanded shale and compost will open up, loosen up and aerate the heavy clay soil and allow for greater root growth and health.
While you’re preparing the soil, you might also want to install an irrigation system to water the fruit trees. Some sort of drip or bubbler system is best because the water will be applied directly to the root zone of the tree. After planting the tree, of course, you will want to mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded hardwood mulch. The mulch will retain moisture in the soil, inhibit weed growth, regulate soil temperature and dress up the appearance of the planting site. In addition, as the mulch decomposes, it releases nutrients to the soil. Replenish the mulch as necessary.

TYPE OF TREE
The next step is deciding which fruit trees you are going to plant. Because most suburban yards are quite small, consider planting dwarf fruit trees that will take up less space. Dwarf trees, furthermore, bear earlier than larger varieties. Most fruit trees are self-pollinating, but it is a good idea to include at least two different cultivars of each tree to ensure adequate cross-pollination and fruit set and because one cultivar might survive late freezes better, tolerate disease and insect problems, and simply outperform the other.

PLANTING AND PRUNING
You can purchase fruit trees in containers or as bare-root trees with plastic wrap around their roots. Containerized trees have their entire root system in tact. On the other hand, bare-root trees have had most of their roots severed in the digging and packaging process. The latter are readily available in nurseries and garden centers this time of the year. After removing the wrap from their roots, plant immediately in moist soil or place in a container of water briefly and then plant.
From a young age, peach, plum and apricot trees should be trained to have three or four main scaffold branches about 2 feet from the ground. Each winter, all vertical branches or shoots should be removed to maintain open, bowl shapes. The idea is to create an open center with all the fruit on the periphery of the tree. At maturity, these trees should be wider than they are tall. Apple and pear trees require very little pruning because you want to maintain the central leader on both.
While selections are plentiful this time of year, purchase the varieties of fruit trees you want to enjoy in your landscape. Planted now, these trees will have a chance to develop some new roots before summer’s hot weather arrives. Be careful to provide supplemental irrigation the first two years until the trees are established. Thereafter, your trees will start producing fruit, and you will enjoy the “fruits” of your labor.

Steve Huddleston is the senior horticulturist at the Fort Worth Botanic Garden.